Free Melbourne, the bits worth seeking out.

Free and genuinely world-class. Most visitors pay for the blockbuster exhibitions and miss this.

The National Gallery of Victoria's permanent collection on St Kilda Road — Rembrandt, Monet, Degas, Tiepolo, the stained glass ceiling in the Great Hall. The Ian Potter Centre at Federation Square (Australian art) is also free. Between the two you have a full day of serious art at no cost.

Local tipGo Tuesday to Friday. Weekends the ticketed exhibitions create queues that spill into the free areas.

Entirely off-road, entirely car-free, entirely free. One of Melbourne's great urban landscapes.

The Merri Creek runs through Melbourne's inner north from Rushall all the way to Coburg and Fawkner. The graffiti-covered bluestone walls in the Northcote section are extraordinary and nobody photographs them because they're not obvious from the street. Do 2km or 12km depending on how you feel.

Local tipStart at Rushall station. Walk north. Turn back whenever you feel like it.

One of the few Melbourne markets that's genuinely local-facing rather than tourist-facing.

Sunday mornings along the St Kilda Esplanade, the market runs along the beachfront with local artists, designers, and makers. Entry is free; buying things is optional.

Local tip9am to 4pm Sundays. Walk the beach before or after.

38 hectares along the Yarra, and where Melbourne actually spends its Sundays. This is what the city does with free space.

Open every day, free. Families, picnics, people sleeping on the grass. The ornamental lake, the herb garden, the ancient cycad collection in the rainforest gully.

Local tipSunday afternoon. Bring food. The café inside is overpriced — buy from the South Melbourne Market and bring it.

The Bunjilaka Aboriginal Cultural Centre is always included and is one of the most important cultural spaces in Melbourne.

The Melbourne Museum charges for the main galleries, but Bunjilaka and the Forest Gallery (a living indoor rainforest) are free on certain days. The museum building itself by Denton Corker Marshall is worth studying.

Local tipCheck which galleries are free before you go. Bunjilaka is always worth it.

Melbourne's laneway culture is free to walk through and genuinely worth an hour of deliberate exploration.

Hosier Lane for the rotating street art — the pieces change, get painted over, get responded to (what you see is not what was there six months ago). Degraves Street for the best density of café culture in the CBD. Centre Place for the narrow alley atmosphere.

Local tipHosier Lane is best in the morning before the crowds. Degraves for morning coffee, any time.

A wild animal encounter that happens within 6km of the CBD. Most Melbourne residents have never done it.

Little penguins come in at dusk every evening to their nesting boxes in the rocks beneath St Kilda Pier. No tour, no ticket, no guide required — just walk to the end of the pier at sunset and wait.

Local tipArrive 20 minutes before sunset. Stay quiet and still at the pier end. Best from February to August.

On the western edge of the CBD, established in 1862. A different energy from the more manicured parks.

Good for a lunch-hour walk from the CBD or a morning run. The views of the Docklands skyline from the northern edge are underrated.

Local tipWeekday mornings. The park quietens by mid-morning and you often have whole sections to yourself.